American Road Trip: The Juicy Lucy

Minneapolis, Minnesota: I had been throwing out the term 'juicy lucy' before I left home, mostly to sidelong stares that suggested I had some something inappropriate. I'm here to tell you right now just exactly what a juicy lucy is. As luck would have it, the local magazine called Mpls St Paul included a feature story about the best burgers (big hint) in town. I will steal their definition. A juicy lucy is a homegrown favourite. It's stuffed with cheese, griddled and served with a molten interior. Get it? The cheese is on the inside of the patty, just like those cheddar cheese smokies we all love so much.

We headed to The 5-8 Club last night, one of two bars in a lifelong battle over who created the local treat. It's beside the freeway and a stone's throw from the Mall of America. It's been around since 1928 so the local know this place and tend to account for the lion's share of business. It was a speakeasy back in the days of prohibition, serving illegal hooch out the back door. It was rather nostalgic that we had to wait in a line at the back door to secure a seat.

There's nothing fancy about the 5-8. In fact, that same magazine included in its review the following line. "The vibe inside the place isn't especially evocative or fun, particularly near the pull tab lady." Guess where we sat?

The menu suggests a Juicy Lucy may take a while to prepare but that wasn't the case. Our meals arrived with lightening speed. Everything I read about juicy lucys cautioned me to wait a few moments before biting in, so I did. I have to admit that it's kinda cool seeing cheese ooze out of the centre of the burger, but what really impressed me was the taste. A 5-8 juicy lucy tastes like a homemade burger fried in a pan, all crispy, greasy and delicious. It comes with only pickles on the bun and I kept it that way, dipping it in a pool of ketchup with each bite.

I'm not sure if it makes any difference if the cheese is on the inside or the top but I have to admit it's a novelty to have a juicy lucy. It's even more fun to say you had a juicy lucy.